Istanbul: Capital of three empires!

When we started planning for Turkey, it was a whim. We wanted to use the Swiss Residence permit to its eastern and farthest most European limit, and Turkey allowed a visa-on-arrival for the CH permit.

So ahoy, Istanbul (Turkey), was our next destination for the last winters in Basel, CH. It was a bittersweet journey, spread across 4-days and was a journey of discovery in more ways than one. 

Inside Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia

We landed at Sabiha Gökçen International Airport via EasyJet after almost a 4 hour non-stop flight from our favourite (and most travelled) Euro airport at Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg.

 And immediately were reminded of back home. The visa-on-arrival process included complimentary tea, and 4-people-assisted Xerox and photograph process, that was so Indian in more ways than one. The visa fees (€15) being paid, we took airport shuttle to Taksim, and then the cab to old town and our hotel Raast was right in the middle of where the whole action can be Old Town Sultanahmet. 

Ayasofya

Ayasofya

View from Hotel Raast

Topkapı Palace, Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) and Blue Mosque were right across the hotel. It was that close – just look at the vantage point from our breakfast (included) section in the hotel.A quick bath and refresh later, we were digging into a Durum and Doner kebab for 5 Lira each, which was roughly half the cost of a Swiss Doner kebab. We were in Doner kebab heaven! And when we wanted directions, we simply asked from the next person on the street, like back home. Now, that is not so easy back in Basel, even though it has a fair share of Turkish-speaking natives settled there.

First, we went to the eighth wonder of the world. Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) takes your breath away for its sheer grandiose views. It was a Church-cum-Mosque! And it was grand. The uniqueness was due to existence of both styles together, and it was made on a scale large enough to numb the senses.

Walls at Ayasofya 

Interior of Ayasofya

                                                                     

We left the Blue mosque for the last day, and, instead, decided to indulge our senses in Basilica Cistern for today. It was across the street from Ayasofya, and was originally the source of water for the city, Constantinople as capital of Byzantine Empire or Istanbul, as capital of the Ottoman Empire.

View of Ayasofya

Inside Basilica Cistern

Inside Basilica Cistern

This is a city with a history right from its Roman Empire days in 667 B.C. The visual feast is exquisite - the Harem, the Grand Bazaar, the Church of Chora, or the Bosphorus Strait were an everlasting experience. Across the street, a little farther down, we discovered a Turkish school - Turkish-Islamic Arts Museum at Ibrahim Pasha Palace. It was a madrassa in their unique style, and a cosy little place where students and teachers were still engaged in their discussions. We excused ourselves and went window shopping.

When we decided to visit the Topkapi Palace and the grand Bazaar also on the next day, we had not bargained for the experience to be so special. The Topkapı Palace is a palace where the generations of Caliphates have been reared to rule all over the Ottoman empire, spread across Asia, Africa and extending till Greece and Bulgaria in its heydays. It is a must visit, with exceptional view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara, consisting an area of 699,000 square meters and is surrounded by five miles of walls. Built by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in the most classical Turkish style, it is a series of successive courtyards, intended for various uses and  separated by trees and monumental gates, guards the treasured Imperial Treasury and the Armoury – a must must visit!

Skyline - Istanbul

Ibrahim Pasha Madrassa

Out of Topkapi, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara is an inviting stretch of water that separates Asia Minor and Europe. You take a ride across the Golden Horn on the Bosphorus, and you reach Asia. It is a great ride. We took the Bosphorus Cruise (passenger ferry) option, took in a grand view of Dolmabahçe Palace, dropped off at Rumeli Hisarı and took the bus 25E. Now that is another (sob) story. The views of the fort were as amazing as the history of the place – it was built to conquer the city way back in and around 1450 AD.

Skyline at Dusk - Istanbul

Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace

The views across the Galata Bridge, and more spectacularly, the skyline of the city of Istanbul are a sight to behold. The dancing Sufi saints performance (Hodjapasha Art & Culture Center for Belly Dancing) and the dinner cruise across the Bosphorus were another activity we wanted, but didn’t.

Now we wonder why!

Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace

Inside Topkapi

Inside Topkapi

Inside Topkapi Palace

Across the Sea of Marmara

Grand Bazaar!

No trip to Istanbul is complete without the stroll along Istiklal Caddesi (La Grande Rue de Péra) and the mandatory visit to Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi). It is a bazaar like no other Asian or Indian bazaar, and a visit is must. Every shop we passed by, doing basically window-shopping, the shopkeeper would stand by. We wold politely inform "just browsing"; only for the owner to reply "just selling" ;)
We wandered about till we found the perfect silver set for 150 Lira odd – including ear rings and lockets. It is a typical Istanbul memento - chic, classy and yet understated.
Another must is a trip to Spice market. We bought lots of Turkish tea and spices for friends and family. And we also bought some super expensive saffron, of Iranian origin, that cost €25000 per kg! J Then again, maybe we didn’t!

Galata Bridge and Bosphorus Cruise

It was a memorable trip, with some really memorable experiences. We had left it too short – just 3 days. We finished off the last day by visiting the Blue mosque in sunset. The dusk view of the mosque was unparalleled, and the interior lighting was something to savour. The square was full of other interesting sights – like the Hippodrome (!) and the Egyptian Obelisk. But the best kept secret lies along a winding street beyond, and to Aarasta market.

This is a tourist paradise with souvenirs and over prices mementos from days immemorial. It is something of a tradition, but is worth a trip for all-things-Turkish. It is a different world – in the good ways. 

Starting Bosphorus Cruise

Along The Bosphorus 

On The Bosphorus

Rumeli Hisari

At Rumeli Hisari

At Rumeli Hisari

At Blue Mosque

Dolmabahce Palace

We ended our journey the next day, with another complimentary breakfast at Raast Hotel, and with some snaps to take home. Another day we will return, and experience Istanbul at a less hurried pace J Here is the itinerary we followed - to serve as a reminder for posterity.

A Window Through Spain

Barcelona and Madrid - Iconic Espanol

Spain was discovered in 2 phases – the first one in February 2011 (Mou’s extended birthday vacation) and the next in Dec. 2011 over the extended Christmas vacation planning.

Sagrada La Familia

Inside 

  In February, we covered the northern part, mostly around Barcelona. Montserrat, Tibidabo and Girona were the out-of-city Barcelona suburbs we planned for. Barcelona was one hell of a sea facing city with its mix of the modern and the ancient. The trip was planned to cover the Barcelona

Posing outside the Sagrada La Familia 

walking trips as suggested by Frommers (which caused a lot of grief !) and a few walks during the out-of-city trips.

Inside the Sagrada La Familia

So we started our adventure in that megapolis of melting cultures Barcelona – going via metro and Sants station to reach the shared accommodation we had booked for. The accommodation incidentally was a room in a 3-bedroom house. Although we had some interesting Italian visitors, the late night shouts and shared bathroom experience was a nightmare for the 5-day 4-night trip.

We had especially extended this trip as we had plans for Girona and Tibidabo and a relaxed vacation over the occasion of Mou’s birthday on the 7th Feb. Barcelona arrival and airport transfer was unspectacular, and we used the apt public transportation by train and bus to arrive at the shared accommodation. We were short changed by at least €2 at the metro ticket counter for the airport transfer and 10-metro ride tickets, so it was a bad start. It was then a quick shower and rush to start the visits. We had plans that included most of tourist hotspots as La Rambla, El Raval and Montjuic fountains.

3^rd Feb:

Sagrada La Familia

La Sagrada Familia was breathtaking as it was mind blowing. We could only marvel at this unique heritage of the nouveau architect Antoní Gaudí who dedicated more than 40 years of his life to its construction. It was an experience like no other, save the Sistine chapel of course. Our cameras were clicking non-stop, but the experience was ethereal, there was a divine sunlight giving an eerie halo to the Christ ensemble, and then the columns inspired devotion as much as awe. The Roman Catholic basilica towered over the city skyline, and we climbed almost to the top by the spires to get a grand view of the city. We should have kept this to the last, just for the sake of curiousity and awe.

After this, we rushed off to another marvel of Gaudi, Parc Guell, which was very touristy and for a reason.  

Gaudi Parc Güell

Spectacular View of Parc Guell

Tibidabo - Temple de Sagrat Cor

The park was choc-a-bloc with Gaudi style architecture and structures, with distinct mazing stone structures (see below), stunning tiling and fascinating buildings. You can see from this picture the Gaudí dragon fountain that is at the entrance to Güell park. This was too mind-tiring, so we decided to postpone Tibidabo to another day, and spent the rest of the afternoon strolling along the LaRambla – which is the major tourist attraction of Barcelona. Full of performing artists, and quintessential souvenir shops, we had a very interesting initiation to the Espanol Hola way of life. And then we made enquiries for the ‘touristy’ Flamenco shows on offer. Overall an interesting start to the adventure, though the accommodation at corner of the Balmes and Rhonda Universitat was a tad disappointing. But for €48 a night, it was as good as you can get!

                                       Parc Güell

4^th Feb: 
The next day we started for city tour and followed Frommers walking guides for reference. Gothic quarter, Església de Santa María del Mar, Casa Batla, the Passeig Maritim- we covered an astonishing array of city sights including the Barcelona waterfront, with its shipping and fishing boats stacked for a great view. The most interesting thing was that we had a day trip guide from the Frommers and other sources that we used for covering most of the top 10 city sights.  And then we had saved Montjuic fountains for the evening. Carrefour stores and café Vienna were interesting eating options that we had uncovered, and with the apartment kitchen at our disposal, delicious European food was always at hand.

Montjuic fountains were again fascinating. Words can hardly describe the spectacle that unfolded, so just admire the snaps. In fact, we returned the next evening for the free fountain show.

Barcelona Beach

5^th Feb:

Ramparts of Gothic Quarter

Off to Tibidabo for the largest or maybe the 2nd largest monument dedicated to Christ.  Rising sharply to the north-west, it affords spectacular views over the city and the surrounding coastline. The TheTemple de Sagrat Cor is at the top, all of which are visible from most of the city. It is topped by a sculpture of the Sacred Heart. The Amusement park is the oldest in Barcelona and retains most of the original rides, some of which date to the turn of the 20th century. We reached Tibidabo by a funicular railway, built in 1901, and was the first of its kind in Spain at that time.

Montjuic Fountains

Funicular to Montserrat

In the evening, we were back at the Montjuic, for another sighting of the magic fountain. It was well worth the trip, and the day was one of the more memorable days - till the next day when we went to Montserrat to see Black Madonna.

At Montserrat

6^th Feb:

Black Madonna

Barcelona Streets

Montserrat is a pilgrimage, and is one of the only 4 or 5 places where you can view the black Madonna. So it was a special day, and it was a long way till there- with trains and buses – but it was well connected from the Barcelona Catalunya and we took the Sant Joan Funicular Railway, and then the Santa Cova Funicular Railway and the Open Air Museum. But just have a look at the snaps, and you will know it was worth the excursion. It took a whole day, and we returned in the evening for a leisurely stroll around the city to marvel at the modern arts like Casa Milà and the Casa Batllo’. All are a part of a unique Spanish modern architecture, and what makes Barcelona a stunning city.

Flamenco

Casa Mila

Columbus 

Gothic Quarter Ramparts

Casa Batllo'

'Gat'

Casa Batllo

In the night we went to a flamenco show on the La Rambla, and it was for €8 per person. Not spectacular, but it was a very good initiation. Of course, Madrid is where one gets to see the real thing, and more about that later.
7^th Feb:  

Paella and Tapas - Quintessential Espanol

It was the birthday occasion, and we had a hearty Seafood Paella and tapas at, where else, La Rambla. El Raval was another of the hot spots we visited towards the end of our eventful journey. We had to skip Girona though. Maybe, there would be another visit for that. We did visit again, to Al Andalucia and it was grand-est!