When we started planning for Turkey, it was a whim. We
wanted to use the Swiss Residence permit to its eastern and farthest most
European limit, and Turkey allowed a visa-on-arrival for the CH permit.
So ahoy, Istanbul (Turkey), was our next destination for
the last winters in Basel, CH. It was a bittersweet journey, spread across 4-days
and was a journey of discovery in more ways than one.
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| Inside Hagia Sophia |
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| Hagia Sophia |
We landed at
Sabiha Gökçen
International Airport via EasyJet after almost a 4 hour non-stop flight
from our favourite (and most travelled) Euro airport at Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg.
And immediately were reminded of back home. The visa-on-arrival process included complimentary tea, and 4-people-assisted Xerox and photograph process, that was so Indian in more ways than one. The visa fees (€15) being paid, we took airport shuttle to Taksim, and then the cab to old town and our hotel Raast was right in the middle of where the whole action can be Old Town Sultanahmet.
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| Ayasofya |
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| Ayasofya |
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| View from Hotel Raast |
Topkapı Palace,
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) and
Blue Mosque were right across the
hotel. It was that close – just look at the vantage point from our breakfast
(included) section in the hotel.A quick bath and refresh later, we were digging
into a Durum and Doner kebab for 5 Lira each, which was roughly half the cost
of a Swiss Doner kebab. We were in Doner kebab heaven! And when we wanted
directions, we simply asked from the next person on the street, like back
home. Now, that is not so easy back in Basel, even though it has a fair
share of Turkish-speaking natives settled there.
First, we went to the eighth
wonder of the world. Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) takes your breath away for its
sheer grandiose views. It was a Church-cum-Mosque! And it was grand. The
uniqueness was due to existence of both styles together, and it was made on a
scale large enough to numb the senses.
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| Walls at Ayasofya |
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| Interior of Ayasofya |
We left the Blue mosque for the last day, and, instead, decided to indulge our senses in
Basilica Cistern for today. It was across the street from Ayasofya,
and was originally the source of water for the city, Constantinople as capital
of Byzantine Empire or Istanbul, as capital of the Ottoman Empire.
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| View of Ayasofya |
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| Inside Basilica Cistern |
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| Inside Basilica Cistern |
This is a city with a history right from its Roman Empire days in 667 B.C. The visual feast is exquisite - the Harem, the Grand Bazaar, the Church of Chora, or the Bosphorus Strait were an everlasting experience. Across the street, a little farther down, we discovered a Turkish school - Turkish-Islamic Arts Museum at Ibrahim Pasha Palace. It was a madrassa in their unique style, and a cosy little place where students and teachers were still engaged in their discussions. We excused ourselves and went window shopping.
When we decided to visit the Topkapi Palace and the grand
Bazaar also on the next day, we had not bargained for the experience to
be so special. The Topkapı Palace is a palace where the generations of
Caliphates have been reared to rule all over the Ottoman empire, spread across
Asia, Africa and extending till Greece and Bulgaria in its heydays. It is a
must visit, with exceptional view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea
of Marmara, consisting an area of 699,000 square meters and is surrounded by
five miles of walls. Built by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in the most classical
Turkish style, it is a series of successive courtyards, intended for various
uses and separated by trees and
monumental gates, guards the treasured Imperial Treasury and the Armoury – a
must must visit!
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| Skyline - Istanbul |
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| Ibrahim Pasha Madrassa |
Out of Topkapi, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara is an
inviting stretch of water that separates Asia Minor and Europe. You take a ride
across the Golden Horn on the Bosphorus, and you reach Asia. It is a great
ride. We took the Bosphorus Cruise (passenger ferry) option, took in a grand view of
Dolmabahçe Palace, dropped off at
Rumeli Hisarı and took the bus 25E. Now that is another (sob) story. The views of the
fort were as amazing as the history of the place – it was built to conquer the
city way back in and around 1450 AD.
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| Skyline at Dusk - Istanbul |
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| Topkapi Palace |
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| Topkapi Palace |
The views across the Galata Bridge, and more spectacularly,
the skyline of the city of Istanbul are a sight to behold. The dancing Sufi
saints performance (Hodjapasha Art & Culture Center for Belly Dancing) and
the dinner cruise across the Bosphorus were another activity we wanted, but
didn’t.
Now we wonder why!
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| Topkapi Palace |
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| Topkapi Palace |
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| Inside Topkapi |
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| Inside Topkapi |
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| Inside Topkapi Palace |
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| Across the Sea of Marmara |
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| Grand Bazaar! |
No trip to Istanbul is complete without the stroll along
Istiklal Caddesi (La Grande Rue de Péra) and the
mandatory visit to
Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi). It is a bazaar like no other Asian or Indian bazaar, and a visit is must. Every shop we passed by, doing basically window-shopping, the shopkeeper would stand by. We wold politely inform "just browsing"; only for the owner to reply "just selling" ;)
We wandered about till we found the perfect silver set for 150 Lira odd – including ear rings and lockets. It is a typical Istanbul memento - chic, classy and yet understated.
Another must is a trip to Spice market. We bought lots of Turkish tea and spices for friends and family. And we also bought some super expensive saffron, of Iranian origin, that cost €25000 per kg!
J Then again, maybe we didn’t!
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| Galata Bridge and Bosphorus Cruise |
It was a memorable trip, with some really memorable
experiences. We had left it too short – just 3 days. We finished off the last
day by visiting the Blue mosque in sunset. The dusk view of the mosque was
unparalleled, and the interior lighting was something to savour. The square was
full of other interesting sights – like the Hippodrome (!) and the Egyptian Obelisk.
But the best kept secret lies along a winding street beyond, and to Aarasta
market.
This is a tourist paradise with souvenirs and over prices
mementos from days immemorial. It is something of a tradition, but is worth a
trip for all-things-Turkish. It is a different world – in the good ways.
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