Weekends cannot be more 'non-relaxing' if you are planning a trip to Paris over an extended weekend! With the Versailles to the museums and the endless metro commute, it is a roller coaster ride best undertaken in favorable weather conditions. Our journey was an extended weekend affair - the next Monday included.
Our journey started on wet, gloomy Saturday in the mid of November 2010. The unexpected rains had already forced us to deviate from the plan for the day, which Devrupa, the wife, had made diligently. In fact, she had plans for all the 4 days we were in Paris. She had done an absolutely amazing thing, given it was our first Paris visit and she only had information over the internet to plan the itinerary.
She had zeroed in on the 14 places to visit, grouped them in clusters, noted down the opening and closing hours and found the point to point travel plans for each of our destinations. This was a huge planning exercise, because of the fact she had a contingency plan B for unexpected!
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Place de la Concorde |
13th November 2010:
Anyways, on a wet, rainy Saturday, we took the TGV from Basel to Paris and landed at Gare de l'est at 13:45. The tourist information office was close by and we took the trip passes and reached our hotel by 14:45, which was the best we could do. And by 15:45 or so, we were at the Place de la Concorde. The view was grand, to say the least. Eiffel, Champs de Elysees, Eyptian obelisk were vying for attention; however the most grand view was of the grandeur surroundings. If the rain had not played spoil sport, we might even have spotted the Guillotine somewhere. But more of that later. Now, back to the search for Eiffel tower. We were spoilt for choice. Madeleine or Champs de Elysees or Arc de Triomphe or Eiffel.
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Sparkling Eiffel! |
The evening spectacle of Eiffel Tower won. It is a spectacular sight; especially from a distance. The glittering lighting and the spectacular view from the top was amazing. However, the top was closed due to heavy wind. So we decided to come again the next evening for the climb to the very top. At 13.10 EUR per person, we decided to save it for the best. By the way, the Eiffel replicas being sold just below by the South Asian migrants are a steal - if you are ok with haggling a bit. You can get a souvenir with lighting as well- for a steal.
Towards the end of the evening, we had the Bateaux Parisiens cruise for an unearthly view of the city along the Seine. All the historic places do look quite different from the river cruise, and the lighting gives you an idea why Paris is known as the City of Lights. The river cruise was the perfect beginning to an exciting stay.
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Notre Dame from the Bateaux Parisiens |
And then dinner at Palais de Raja Maharaja. It was truly an authentic Indian dinner. The taste reminded us of food from back home. The spiciness, the aroma - yes this was truly an Indian place - and that includes the garrulous owner thrown in for special effect! It was a treat from our friend who was celebrating his first anniversary in the most memorable and possibly the most practical way - by being away from the wife!
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The grand Châteaux de Versailles
(pic of Hall of Mirrors) |
14th November 2010::
Start early was the crucial thing - for we had the Palace of Versailles in our plans. Early morning train plans were thrown into nought as we got our RER and metro mixed up; but thankfully after some of my fabled resourcefulness combined with a total disregard for the rule of law, we managed to catch the RER C line to Versailees Rive-Gauche. The approach was a little of a scare as some uniforms boarded the trains asking for tickets, but we managed a cool getaway there as also at the Versailles station.
But nothing can prepare you for the palace view. Starting from the Louis XIII and XIV and all his wives in the counting, he constructed a fabulous palace. I keep on thinking of the maintenance effort required. But the Hall of Mirrors and the welcome room and the paintings are truly worth a visit. Then there is the Marie Antoinette's palace and the Grand Triannon to savour. Do not miss the gardens and the Petit Train around the massive grand place, even if it costs EUR 3.5 per trip - we somehow managed to get the same for round trip. And Hot Chocolate at one of the Versailles garden cafe is another must. It was by far the creamiest and yummiest hot chocolate Devrupa has ever had...that is her belief at least!
But by 2:30 pm we forced ourselves to start back to Paris.
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Rodin's Thinking Man in Rodin Museum |
Rodin Museum and Hotel d'Invalides were the remaining museums in our plan for the day. Rodin was quite ok, but the Musee d'arms was spectacular. A must visit - and that includes Napoleon's tomb. It includes the history of french wars, including Napoleonic wars and World wars. What you can also do is grab a Napoleon pistol or a cannon. Truly collectors items - both of them.
Then the ride to the top of the Eiffel tower. No visit to Paris can be complete without a view from the top of Eiffel. Agreed, this is just a view - same as what you can get from the top of Notre Dame or the Arc de Triomphe, but the ride to the top of Eiffel on the 2 floor lifts is really worth the EUR 13.10 per person. and the view of Paris from the top is breathtaking. You can see the entire city laid out - like a decorated marriage pavilion. The Sacre de Coeur with its magnificent basilica looks absolutely inviting.
Anyways, we ended a tired 2nd day with another fabulous Indian dinner - again at the Raja Maharaja. Thankfully the garrulous owner left us to our elements today - he had managed to get another patron today!
15th November 2010:
Louvre was waiting, but we decided to complete Saint Chapelle and Notre Dame before; and make a dash for Louvre museum by 12 noon. Saint Chapelle is a must see; especially the upper section. The 15 stained glass windows with depiction of Biblical images are a certain revelation. The colourful depiction of the history, the priceless relics and the Gotich architecture certainly took our breath away.
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Saint Chapelle |
On to Notre Dame across the street (I must again thank Devrupa for the meticulous planning). Notre Dame with its 422 steps and massive gargoyles are a must do in anyone's itinerary. The view from the top of Paris is one to savour, and the 13 ton bell is an engineering marvel. Have a look at the mutiple shades and faces of the gargoyles, and you will know why Paris was referred to as the second capital of Europe in its prime - after Rome of course.
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Gargoyle in Notre Dame |
Now on to Louvre to be really really amazed. This museum houses the Mona Lisa, but that is just another painting when you actually start exploring. Probably the entire history of humanity, or at least
its known part, is captured in some nook or corner of the Louvre. A week is probably not enough, but we had 4 hours at the maximum. We did not do justice to the visual masterpieces in there, but we did just enough to tickle the brown cells.
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Louvre - A grand Museum |
Rush to Montmarte and Sacre de Coeur - these were the last must see places in our itinerary. Montmarte and Moulin Rouge is where the painters and the original Paris is settled in. The funiculaire de Montmarte is a wonderful romantic way to reach the Basilica.
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Sacre Coeur - spectacular Basilica!
(no pics allowed inside) |
The authentic food in there - this was our first French food in Paris- was really worth the trip. The owner was again a wonderful warm person from Tahiti and French parents, who insisted on calling the wife Spanish. A nice compliment actually. And the food he suggested were really interesting - not to mention the framed photos of Nehru and India in his small restaurant.
The Basilica - from the inside - is quite a sight. Overall you are awe inspired and feel overwhelmed. This city is for the connoisseurs.
Do your souvenir shopping here for some bargain deals.
Life does come a full circle, and so did our trip. By 6 p.m. in the evening, we managed to hit the roads for a last view of the places we had started off our Paris tour with.
Place de l'Concorde, Elysees d'Champs and Arc de Triomphe. The walk from Concorde to Arc de Triomphe is nothing spectacular, at least not in the 1st week of November, though the view after 284 steps of Arc de Triomphe is worth the trip.
By 9 p.m. we were ready to retire; we had a 6 a.m. train back to Basel. Nothing like a chocolat mousse (at McDonalds!) - but our Paris adventure was a hectic affair. Our bodies were so tired, that an Aspirin was the bare minimum to get everyone out of their beds by 4:30 am the next day.
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Arc de Triomphe |
A Weekend in Paris - my suggestion: Extend the trip by atleast 3 more days. 5 days is a bare minimum to do justice to Paris. But do keep in mind that many museums and crypts are closed on Mondays, so do make plans around that limitation.
And don't forget the all inclusive Paris Visite passes, Museum passes, and the Bateaux Parisiens cruise for an absolutely unforgettable experience.